Ushuaia

The southernmost city in the world beckoned me for a long time. The names "Tierra del Fuego" and "Patagonia" seemed incredibly romantic to me and at the same time infinitely distant. There is some logic in this - on the world map there are not so many cities located so far from us.

Arriving in Ushuaia, I noticed that many tourists share my romantic moods. People come here not so much for the sake of wonderful nature and exotic animals, which are found in large numbers here. Even the amazing local cuisine, the main course of which is the king crab, is not in the first place for travelers. Ushuaia’s main business card is the fact that it’s located almost at the edge of the world.

About this you will not forget to remind at every corner. On one of the city walls, a sign-drawing caught my eye, where among others there was a small inscription “Moscow: 15,996 km”, and next to it was written “End of the world: here” in such large letters that any tourist could clearly understand: now he located much closer to the end of the Earth than to some kind of homeland.

And yet Ushuaia has become for me something much more than a place on a geographical map, albeit so far away. I felt the beauty of this harsh and cold region, which caused such admiration and awe among the discoverers, I got acquainted with the nature and way of life of local residents, learned about the bright, but at the same time sad history of the region, and of course, I always took away the impressions of the incomparable, southernmost cuisine in the world.

How to get there

Getting to Ushuaia is not easy and, most importantly, not cheap. If you fly from Moscow or St. Petersburg, then the only possible way will be air travel with two or more transfers. However, this method has many variations: you can take a ready connecting flight or buy tickets for each section of the route yourself. And if you first want to travel around Argentina or Chile, you can get to Ushuaia by bus.

By plane

Connecting flights from Russia

If you want to immediately get to Ushuaia from Moscow or St. Petersburg, without being distracted by other attractions of Argentina, ready-made connecting flights are suitable for you. They are offered by Lufthansa, KLM, and Qatar Airways in an alliance with Argentine Airlines. Such round-trip tickets will cost you no less than USD 1,500 per person, and the journey time will be from 40 hours, as these flights involve long transfers in Frankfurt, Amsterdam or Doha. If you do not have a Schengen visa, then in the first two cases you will find a 20-hour wait at the airport, which will certainly make the flight very difficult. Therefore, before buying, I recommend looking for individual tickets for each section of the path.

Self docking

Separate purchase of tickets will allow you to choose flights that do not require a long wait. You yourself will be able to adjust the time of your transfers and find the right domestic flight. Argentine Airlines fly to Ushuaia from Buenos Aires 7-8 times a day, so planning a convenient route on your own will not be difficult.

True, this will not bring big savings: if you do not get one of the rare promotions offered by European airlines, then round-trip tickets will cost you the same $ 1,500. And a thousand of them you will pay for transatlantic flights and as much as 500 for two short flights Buenos Aires-Ushuaia-Buenos Aires. You can search for offers, for example, here.

Important! Regardless of whether you buy a ticket for a connecting flight or choose each individually, pay attention to whether a change of airport in Buenos Aires is required. The fact is that only 1-2 daily flights to Ushuaia depart from Ministro Pistarini de Ezeiza International Airport (EZE), all the others depart from the small domestic Jorge Newbery (AEP). Despite the fact that the distance between airports is only 45 km, congestion in Buenos Aires may prevent you from getting there quickly. For such a transplant, I would advise laying at least 4-5 hours. And if you buy tickets yourself, it is better to use the flight that departs from your own (international) airport.

Domestic flights

Today, you can get to Ushuaia by domestic flights from several regions of Argentina, and more precisely from Buenos Aires, the city of Cordoba in the north and El Calafate in the south. The latter option is especially popular with tourists who decided to cover the two most famous cities of Patagonia in one trip. I also took advantage of this option.

Flights from El Calafate fly daily, round-trip tickets cost about 250 USD, and travel time is only an hour and a half. This is a great option even for budget travelers, since a bus between these two cities will not cost much less, and a trip through the land will take you a lot of time. But I will talk about this in the corresponding section.

Ushuaia Airport

The stylish tiny airport of Ushuaia with its decoration reminded me of a cozy hunting lodge. The process of getting things for everyone went quite quickly, with the exception of a few passengers who carried food, especially fruits, in their luggage. There is a rule that strictly works throughout Patagonia: you should not import any plants or seeds into the region.

The airport is just 6 km from the center of Ushuaia. At the time of my trip, he was not connected to the city by public transport and, as far as I know, the city administration does not plan to offer this opportunity to tourists. Therefore, the only options for today remain a taxi or transfer, which you can order when booking a hotel. In both cases, prices start at 7-8 USD.

By train

It is impossible to get to Ushuaia by train from Russia. Moreover, the once famous and developed Argentine railway after numerous economic crises almost ceased to exist. True, not far from Ushuaia, there is one train with the romantic name "Doomsday Train". However, this is just a tourist attraction, which I will talk about later.

By bus

If you arrive in Argentina and want to travel around the country, then you will quickly get to know the local intercity buses. This type of transport is undoubtedly the most popular and affordable means of traveling around the country. However, the secluded and closed location of Tierra del Fuego noticeably reduces the popularity of buses in this region of Argentina. Nevertheless, this option should not be dismissed.

All buses to Ushuaia leave the Argentine city of Rio Gallegos. If you are coming from other cities, you will need to make a transfer.

At prices, the bus in this case is not much inferior to the plane. For example, a trip from El Calafate to Ushuaia will cost you 150 USD for round-trip tickets. Thus, in comparison with the plane you save only 100 USD. However, on the road only in one direction you will spend at least 16 hours. During this time, you will have to buy food, which is quite expensive even in ordinary Patagonia supermarkets. Moreover, the bus goes along a difficult route: it crosses the strait by ferry and passes through the territory of Chile. This can be a problem for travelers with a passport of some CIS countries who, for the sake of a short transfer, will need to apply for a Chilean visa.

Ushuaia Bus Station is located right in the city center. From here you can easily get to your hotel on foot or by taxi for 5-10 USD.

By car

You can get to Ushuaia by car, rented in one of the cities of Argentina and Chile. However, in this case it is very important to clarify with the agency the question: will they let you through the border in a rental car. Tierra del Fuego is surrounded on all sides by either the ocean or Chilean territory, and getting here without crossing the border is simply impossible.

In addition, if you plan to rent a car already in Patagonia, for example, in El Calafate, be prepared for the fact that it will cost you no less than 70 USD per day. Therefore, perhaps, it will be much easier to rent a car in Ushuaia itself, and calmly ride there in the vicinity.

By ferry

There are no cruises from our region to Ushuaia yet. The only sea voyage that involves a stop in the southernmost city in the world is cruises from Buenos Aires to Antarctica. Such an adventure takes at least 2 weeks and costs from 6000 USD per person. During sailing, the ship makes stops in several major cities in South America, including 1-2 days in Ushuaia. More details about cruises to Antarctica I will tell a little later.

hint: Ushuaia - time is now 10: 0213 OctoberDifference in hours: Moscow & plus; 6 Kazan & plus; 6 Samara & plus; 7 Yekaterinburg & plus; 8 Novosibirsk & plus; 10 Vladivostok & plus; 13

When is the season. When is the best time to go?

If we consider the climatic conditions of Ushuaia in terms of temperature, the situation does not seem so frightening: even in the coldest period, the thermometer’s mark here rarely drops below zero, and in the warm season it sometimes rises to + 15 ° С. But we must understand that the most aggravating circumstance here is the wind: they say that Patagonian winds are able to lift an entire truck into the air, and at the edge of the mainland they even take on the shape of devastating hurricanes.

I flew to Ushuaia in the midst of the high season - in mid-January. The weather was very pleasant, daytime temperature almost all the time kept at around + 10 ° C and was well suited for long walks. However, during a water excursion along the Beagle Channel, such a wind rose that all passengers preferred to hide in the cabin of the ship, and it took me a lot of effort to crawl out onto the deck so that, clutching the railing with all my hands and feet, take a picture of the beautiful surroundings. Therefore, when planning a trip in the low season (from April to October), you simply risk dooming yourself to sit in your pants in a warm room. However, if your goal is an active holiday, for example, visiting the ski resort of Cerro Castor, you should pay attention to this particular time of year.

It is important to remember that summer in the southern hemisphere falls on December, January and February. But, in order not to get confused, I will talk about the seasons in our usual calculus.

Ushuaia in the summer

June, July and August are undoubtedly the most unfavorable months for those who are going to go trekking, attend water excursions and idly walk around the city. At this time, the city has the lowest temperatures and a lot of snow. When planning to visit Ushuaia during this period, be prepared for the fact that due to bad weather you will have to give up many excursions and entertainment. However, summer is not a popular tourist season for traveling in South America at all - even in the warmer regions, heavy rains and hurricanes are falling at that time.

But it is precisely during these months that the most active local ski resort, Cerro Castor, is most active. Therefore, lovers of winter sports go to a place 25 km from Ushuaia in the summer. For their patience and endurance, they receive another gift: the opportunity to visit the longest night in the world is the main holiday of the city, which is celebrated from June 20 to 22.

Ushuaia in the fall

In my opinion, traveling to the southernmost city in the world before mid-October is also quite risky. But from the second half of autumn you can try: if you are lucky with the weather, you can enjoy all the delights of Ushuaia, and at the same time find housing for much less money.

Ushuaia in the spring

The officially high season ends at the end of March. At the beginning of April, the flow of tourists decreases, and with it the prices for services are reduced. This is a good time for a budget holiday (as much as possible in Ushuaia), but you should be prepared for sharp cooling and snowfalls.

Ushuaia in the winter

December, January and February are the peak of the tourist season. During this time, the city is visited by about 20 thousand tourists, which increases the population of Ushuaia by one and a half times. The most popular period is Christmas and New Year's Eve: on a festive night, all restaurants will be packed with vacationers, and dinner prices can reach several hundred dollars.

Nevertheless, tourists choose this season for good reason. Indeed, many manage to get to the ends of the world only once in their lives, and it would be a pity to miss something interesting and spend a whole precious day at home due to bad weather.

In other regions of Argentina, suffocating heat is at this time, and ripe fruit arrives at Ushuaia supermarkets. A ripe watermelon for me was a curious find on the shelves of the southernmost city in the world: I had never had to eat it before, filling winter mittens with sweet juice.

Ushuaia - monthly weather

hint: Ushuaia - weather for the months of January January ± 9.7 February ± 9.3 March ± 7.3 April April ± 4.9 May ± 2.6 June ± 0.9 July July ± 0.8 August ± 1.7 September September ± 3.7 October October ± 6.3 November ± 7.7 December & plus; 8.6

Areas. Where is better to live

Ushuaia is a very small town. The area of ​​its center does not exceed 1 kilometer, and the settlement itself can be bypassed in a few hours. Almost half of the buildings are occupied by hotels, restaurants and tourist shops. Ushuaia is not officially divided into regions, so I broke it at my discretion.

City center

Ushuaia Center is an ideal place for those who want to always be in the center of events. This is where most of the shops and restaurants are located, and in 10 minutes you can walk to the port, from where sightseeing boats depart. The bulk of the housing in this quarter is made up of 3 and 4 star hotels starting at 70 USD per room, but at the end of the streets there are a couple of budget hostels.

Park Turbal

The surroundings of Turbal Park are a noticeably calmer area. This is where most of the budget hostels and budget family hotels are located. True, there is much less tourist infrastructure than in the center, so when stopping in the park, get ready to walk a lot.

Neighborhood

On the secluded trails of the urban outskirts are luxury spa hotels and isolated bungalows. Here you can rent a luxurious room from 200 USD per day. As a rule, in most of these hotels you will be offered a private car with a driver for an additional fee, which will drive you around. The hotels are also equipped with travel agencies and restaurants, so you can not leave the territory without emergency. Undoubtedly, this is a good option for lovers of secluded relaxation premium.

What are the prices for vacation

During the trip I was very lucky: then in Argentina there was still a black dollar. Now, as far as I know, this system has collapsed, and the course of the Argentine peso jumps quite a lot.

Housing

Of course, the first surprise that awaits tourists in the southernmost city in the world is high housing prices. A bed in the dormitory here will cost $ 20, individual rooms start at 40, and you will have to pay about 80 for apartments. Compare prices, for example, here. It’s convenient to book a room at Bucking. After traveling in Latin America, where the whole number rarely cost me more than $ 20, I was surprised at such high prices, but at first I decided that I could find something cheaper on the spot. But even upon arrival I was disappointed - the owners of the hostels refused to bargain, and the maximum that I managed to save was a couple of dollars that I could have saved by choosing the most budget option on the Internet in advance.

There are several 5-star hotels in Ushuaia. A day in one of them costs 350-400 USD. In my opinion, for such a price a tourist is quite justified in expecting something supernatural from a hotel. However, this amount only includes a cozy, spacious room, three meals a day, a pool and spa treatments.

In Ushuaia, there are campsites where you can come with your tent or settle in one of their tents.In this case, the night will cost you only 10 USD per person. Undoubtedly, this is the most budget accommodation option in Ushuaia. But do not forget that the daytime temperature here almost never rises above + 15 ° С, and the nighttime temperature can even drop to zero even in the warm season, so this option is only suitable for seasoned travelers.

Food

Approximately the same situation is with food. If in other cities of Argentina you can order a hearty meat dish for 7-10 USD, then in Ushuaia for this money you will find a sandwich in fast food at best. In order not to worry about expensive price tags in institutions, I decided to look at this problem from the other side and drew attention to local delicacies, which are truly unique here. For example, prices for royal crab dishes here start at 15-20 USD. How much this delicacy can cost in our restaurants, I can’t even imagine.

A small bonus is that you can come to many restaurants with your drinks, including wine. Considering that the prices for it in stores start from 2-3 USD, and in institutions a bottle will cost you at least 10, this is a good way to save a little.

Excursions

Excursions in Ushuaia are also prohibitively expensive. For example, a short climb to the glacier by funicular will cost you about 10 USD, and to get to the funicular, you will have to pay another 10 for a taxi. Prices for water excursions on the Beagle Channel during my visit started from 50 USD per person. If, in addition, you want to go ashore to admire the Arctic penguins at arm's length, you will have to pay at least 100.

You can enroll in a group at one of the city’s many agencies. If you want to save on water excursions, it is best to find out the time of departure of the boats and approach the port at this time. Perhaps there you will be able to bargain with the captain, if there are free places in the boat.

Perhaps there is only one "excursion", which in Ushuaia will cost travelers less than anywhere else - tours to Antarctica. If in our agencies such a service will cost you at least 10,000 USD, then in Buenos Aires it will cost 6,000, and in Ushuaia you can find a tour for 3,000-4,000. True, it will be necessary to act in this case promptly so as not to get stuck in the expensive Ushuaia for several weeks. I will tell you more about traveling to Antarctica a bit later.

The main attractions. What to watch

Ushuaia and its environs are full of various attractions - from unique phenomena of the Arctic nature and museums that tell about the difficult fate of the region to naive and sometimes funny tourist attractions.

Top 5

Beagle Channel

This channel seemed to me a real wonder of the world. Everything here is in awe - a fascinating story of its discovery, pristine beauty and, of course, flora and fauna so exotic for us.

All canal excursions begin at the port of Ushuaia. Tickets can be purchased in advance at the agency or try to bargain with boat captains before sailing. Prices range from 50 to 150 USD depending on many factors, such as season and boat size. Indeed, the smaller and more compact the vessel, the closer it can approach the coast. The walk lasts about 3-4 hours, and during this time I managed to see some real miracles, none of which I can exclude from the Top 5.

• Of course, the main purpose of a canal walk for most tourists is to watch species so rare for us animals and birds. Here and there we met fur seal rookeries and whole cormorant islands, and at the end of the excursion we sailed to the island where penguins frolic. By the way, this is the only place in Argentina where, in addition to Magellanic penguins, I managed to see colorful Papuan.

• Faro les eclaireurs - the lighthouse that deservedly became the hallmark of the Beagle Channel. It is considered one of the most southern buildings in the world, and most importantly, it turns out very well in photographs, for which tourists love it.

• Flag trees - an amazing phenomenon that can be found in other parts of the region, but I managed to see it only during a tour of the canal. The fact is that from strong winds, the low trees growing in the region bend strongly, taking on the shape of a flag. This picture allows you to fully experience the severity of the local climate, which nothing can resist.

Yaman Museum

The Yaman Museum details the indigenous people of Tierra del Fuego. I read about these amazing people in a book about Darwin's travels and felt sympathy for them long before the trip. This tribe had an unusual way of life: living in such harsh lands, they managed to walk without clothes thanks to a special metabolism. Unfortunately, the arrival of Europeans and the introduction of a European lifestyle in the region ended sadly for the Yaman Indians, and today there are very few of them. Therefore, this museum is a sad, but very important attraction of Ushuaia.

At the time of my trip, the ticket cost about 6 USD. However, soon after my visit, the museum was closed for reconstruction. However, several enthusiastic reviews in March and April 2017 give hope that it will work again, taking tourists into the world of the magical past of this region.

Plaza Malvinas

Plaza Malvinas is one of the main squares and an important historical symbol of Ushuaia. The fact is that the long war with the British over the Malvinas (Falkland Islands) brought a lot of losses to the Argentines, and at the same time the emotional pain and wild dislike of the British.

Dislike here manifests itself in everything. On the stands telling about the sorrows of war, not the English flag, but the USA is drawn near the English version of the text. In some places, inscriptions like "English pirates are forbidden!"

In my opinion, the situation that arose between Argentina and Great Britain is very ambiguous, because in fact the Malvinas Islands never belonged to Argentina. However, it is worth visiting one of the main squares of the city at least to understand how close to heart Argentines took this conflict, and try not to argue with them if the conversation comes to a sore subject.

Glacier Martial

Climbing to the Martial Glacier is an exciting trekking that can take you all day. True, if you fly to Ushuaia from El Calafate, where you managed to visit the Perito Moreno Glacier, then do not expect new shocks: Martial is not so big at all. However, it is the largest and most beautiful in Tierra del Fuego.

Doomsday train

I decided to add the doomsday train to the Top 5 only due to the frantic demand that tourists enjoy this attraction. He, to put it mildly, disappointed me.

A train with a romantic name leaves from a separate station in the vicinity of Ushuaia and continues to the Tierra del Fuego National Park, which I will talk about later. At the station there is a cheerful fuss: music plays, passengers rush. A beautiful old composition beckons for a walk. I was not stopped even by the ticket price, which at the time of my trip was 30 USD.

The delight ended when the train set off. He walked right the same with a turtle speed not exceeding 10 km per hour. My companions without exception were tourists over 60, whom this pace was clearly suited. I felt rather uncomfortable. On the way, the loudspeaker told us the story of these places, which he seemed to be composing on the go. And, when after 30-40 minutes we finally left on the territory of the park, I had no impressions other than strangling toads for wasted 30 USD.

In my opinion, this is a really good attraction for older people or tourists who have difficulty walking. But for those who, like me, were flattered only by the romantic name and music at the station, I advise you to think before embarking on this expensive trip.

Beaches. Which are better

In the vicinity of Ushuaia, there is one picturesque beach - Playa Larga. Of course, here you will not be able to soak up the sun and, especially, to sunbathe. But, despite this, the beach is very popular among tourists and nature lovers.

Playa Larga is 9 km from the city, so many travelers walk here, turning the walk into a bright full-day excursion, but occasionally a public bus also goes to this direction. In addition, no taxi will refuse to throw you for 15-20 USD.

For some reason, trekking to the beach has become for me one of the most enjoyable moments in Ushuaia. In these wild, secluded places, a stunning view of the surrounding mountains opens up, and the absence of noisy tour groups gives a feeling of incredible peace.

And now a moment of safety. On the shore you will find shells and mussels here and there. For some reason, the tourist center of Ushuaia strictly forbids tourists to eat them, threatening severe poisoning. As I understand it, the warning applies only to certain types of shells, but I still do not recommend collecting them on the beach. And if you really want to, it is better to get a consultation at the travel agency first.

Churches and temples. Which are worth a visit

The only church in the city, Iglesia de la Merced, is located in the center of Ushuaia on the main street. They say that it was built by prisoners in the middle of the 20th century. Inside you will not find luxurious sculptures or frescoes, but you will definitely feel the atmosphere of endless peace. Usually the church is open from early morning until 5-6 pm, but it is closed at lunchtime, when all of Argentina leaves for a siesta. Entrance to the church is free, and on Sundays and on Catholic holidays you can attend Mass.

Museums Which are worth a visit

Today in Ushuaia there are about 10 museums. The most informative seemed to me the Yaman Museum, which I talked about in the Top 5. In addition to him, I could highlight 2 more exciting exhibits.

• Doomsday Museum (Museo fin del mundo) - A small local history museum in the city center. Here you will learn about the history of the region, see stuffed local birds, animal skeletons and several artifacts from the Yaman world. In my opinion, the ticket price for foreigners is a bit overpriced (during my trip it was about 10 USD per person), however, if you want to get to know the region in a short time, this option justifies itself. Museum hours: 10-17 hours on weekdays and 10-18 on Saturdays. The museum is closed on Sundays.

• Antigua casa beban - a family home owned by one of the first families in Ushuaia. The beauty of this place is that you can look here absolutely free and look at the interior items of the first settlers. The museum is open from Monday to Friday from 10 to 18 hours.

Parks

In the tiny tourist Ushuaia there is absolutely no place for parks. Even the corner under the beautiful name Turbal Park is a deserted and, apparently, private territory. But quite interesting walking trails are located at the exit of the city, on the way to the Martial Glacier. A beautiful panorama of Ushuaia opens from here, and the twisted trees along the edges of the paths give these places a feeling of special mystery. This area does not have its own name, so if you want nature and privacy, just head for the glacier, and then turn onto one of the paths that will lead you further.

Tourist streets

In fact, the entire city center and port territory can be attributed to the tourist area. But the main street, of course, is San Martin. It is here that the largest number of restaurants, hotels, travel agencies and souvenir shops are concentrated. Moreover, the latter so violently compete with each other that they go to all kinds of tricks, which are very interesting to watch.

Another popular type of "tourist lure" here are signs that can be found on San Martin street at almost every step. Indeed, any tourist will be interested to see how far he is from his home.

However, the imagination of some souvenir shops on the main street exceeds all expectations. At the entrance to one of the galleries, I saw a curious sign: "A stone that predicts the weather." Of course, it became interesting for me to see this miracle, and I went inside. An ordinary stone hung on a rope in the courtyard, and an explanatory sign was nailed nearby: “If the stone is dry, then the weather is good; if the stone is wet, then it will rain; and if you do not see the stone, there is fog on the street.”

What to see in 1 day

Usually, arriving on the edge of the Earth, tourists try to spend at least a few days in Ushuaia. However, for travelers arriving at the port of the southernmost city in the world by ferry on the road from Buenos Aires to Antarctica, this question is quite relevant. Therefore, I will tell you how to usefully spend a single day in the city.

• 9:00 - If you are not tired of the water scenery, take a guided tour along the Beagle Channel immediately upon arrival. If the next boat trip does not please you, I advise you to take a transfer to the Tierra del Fuego National Park or Esmeralda Lagoon and take a walk along the wild trails. Well, if you are too tired to go somewhere, book a city tour. One way or another, a half-day excursion will be a fascinating and useful addition to your visit, because you can easily walk around the main streets of Ushuaia in a few hours.

• 14:00-15:00- It's time to return to the city. Shops and restaurants are slowly opening after the siesta. Order a king crab dish in one of the cafes and enjoy this magnificent delicacy with a glass of Argentinean wine.
• 16:00 - Visit the museums of Yaman or Doomsday. This is the best way to find out the history of the region in the shortest possible time.
• 17:00 - Take a walk around souvenir shops and galleries. The southernmost city in the world is a place where you cannot return without gifts. You can also look at the tourist information center, where you will get a free passport mark on your visit to the ends of the Earth.

• 19:00 - At this time, traffic begins on the central streets of Ushuaia, live music plays in many establishments, and amazing smells come from restaurants, inviting tourists to dinner. Ushuaia cannot be called a city of rampant nightlife, but you can easily find a cozy cafe for an unforgettable single evening in the southernmost city in the world.

What to see in the surroundings

There are some amazing places around Ushuaia. Unfortunately, public transport in the region practically does not go, so you can get to each of them by private transfer (for 10-20 USD) or a rented car. However, each of these places is worth the money spent on the road.

• Estancia Harberton is in 80 km from Ushuaia. This tourist area is located in a secluded peninsula. You can get here both by land and as part of one of the excursions on the Beagle Channel. It is important that not all motor ships stop there, so if you are interested in this mysterious land, this issue should be discussed in advance with a representative of the agency. If you are tired of the tourist Ushuaia, then Estancia Arberton will be a great place for a relaxing holiday: there are several accommodation options for every taste and budget, and the main attraction is considered Akatushun Museum (Museo Acatushun) at the eponymous center for the study of marine mammals.

• Tierra del Fuego National Park (Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego) spread out just in 15 km from the city. Transfers regularly go here, which of your choice take you either to the park or to the train station of the end of the world. The park itself is very picturesque, but there are practically no people there. It is conveniently divided into small trekking trails of 5-10 km, making it one of the best places in the region for a pleasant secluded walk.

• Laguna Esmeralda (Laguna Esmeralda) - another picturesque place in 17 km from the city. Here you can resemble trekking of varying degrees of difficulty, and it’s just breathtaking to discover the views.The only caveat is that the park is very popular among tourists, so in the high season you will often meet people on the trails.

Hint: Routes to neighboring cities Ushuaia - Puerto Williams 46 km Ushuaia - Punta Arenas 249 km Ushuaia - Rio Gallegos 358 km Ushuaia - Puerto Natales 441 km Ushuaia - El Calafate 564 km

Nearby islands

Around Ushuaia there are many islands, but not all of them are open for visiting. Most popular is island of Navarino (Isla Navarino). A one-way ticket will cost you more than $ 100, although the journey to Puerto Williams will take only 15-20 minutes.

These are wild and underdeveloped places that are well suited for unforgettable trekking and active eco-tourism. When planning a trip, it is important to consider that the island belongs to Chile. And if Russian citizens do not need to draw up documents to cross the border, then travelers from some CIS countries may require a visa.

However, Ushuaia preserves something much more than access to nearby islands. This is where the port is located, from where most of the ships sail to Antarctica. The classic tour is a 7-10 day trip, during which passengers explore the Drake Channel and the coastal zones of the Antarctic Peninsula.

Prices for such a trip vary depending on the season and program, but on average vary from 5,000 to 10,000 USD. In travel agencies in Ushuaia you can find cheaper offers if there are empty seats on the ship. True, in the high season (December-January) this probability is rather small.

For an additional fee, tourists are offered many services: from renting warm clothes, trekking outings and observing animals to spending the night on the coast of the Southern Ocean. The total cost of such "additional services" can be several thousand dollars, so at least about things such as clothes and equipment, you better take care yourself.

Many argue whether a trip to the almost lifeless mainland is worth such fabulous money. I can not answer this question, since for me traveling to Antarctica is still an unfulfilled dream. But all my friends who have been there, repeat again and again that for this wonderful experience they would not regret even more money.

Food. What to try

Ushuaia’s cuisine is different from Argentina’s traditional menu. Steaks here will be less magnificent than in Buenos Aires, and the prices for them will surely seem to you sky-high. The royal dish in almost all establishments is the king crab. This delicacy is prepared in different ways: they are fried, baked in sauce or soup is cooked from it. Despite the decent cost of these dishes (from 15-20 USD), I advise you to try them all, because the memory of the pleasure received from them will remain with you forever.

I had to try smaller crabs in other countries of the world, and usually the process was overshadowed by the torment of trying to correctly "disassemble" them. But the king crab gives a completely different feeling. As a rule, his meat is served already chopped, which allows visitors to the cafe not to be distracted by any unnecessary difficulties.

For those who, on the contrary, love to tinker with butchering, I also have some good news: in the local supermarkets, frozen king crabs are sold whole. The price during my trip ranged from 30 to 40 USD apiece. According to my calculations, the savings are small: not all parts of the crab are consumed, so for this amount you will get 2 servings in a restaurant (usually with a side dish) or 3 servings in the kitchen of your apartment.

Local specialties include hake and lamb. But to be honest, I was so carried away by tasting crab that I never tried how other delicacies are prepared in Ushuaia.

Recommended Places

In the southernmost city in the world there are no problems with the choice of establishments. But is it worth repeating that food prices here will be significantly higher than in other regions. Traveling in Latin America, I got used to simple, cozy cafes where you can have a hearty and tasty lunch for 5-7 USD. In Ushuaia, in such institutions I rarely managed to leave less than 20.

There are several types of establishments in the city: from expensive restaurants to simple fast food eateries. Street food is not common here, possibly due to the cold climate or unprofitability.

Budgetary

If you want to save as much as possible in Ushuaia, then the best choice would be to book a room in a hostel or apartments with a kitchen and cook at home. This is the only way to eat hearty for 3-5 USD. Even in the most budgetary establishments you will leave at least 7, and the choice here will be small: as a rule, these are pizza, Argentinean sandwiches "Lomito" and empanadas - traditional pies.

Below is a list of a few budget-friendly establishments.

• Dona Lupita;
• Lomitos Martinica;
• Mc Pipi;
• El Bambu;
• La Marmita.

Mid level

Mid-level cafes are perhaps the most popular in Ushuaia. Here you can try the main local delicacies, as well as dishes of Argentinean and European cuisine, leaving for dinner about 30 USD per person.

There are a lot of such cafes, but I will list a few of the most famous.

• Paso Garibaldi RestoBar;
• Taberna del Viejo Lobo;
• Maria Lola Resto;
• El Viejo Marino;
• Bodegon Fueguino;
• La Cantina Fueguina de Freddy.

Expensive

More and more gourmet restaurants are opening in Ushuaia. These are expensive establishments in which visitors can easily leave 100-200 USD for dinner. As a rule, seafood dishes are served here, as well as various delicacies of Argentinean and French cuisine.

Below I will list the most popular of them.

• Reinamora Restaurant;
• Kaupe;
• Chez Manu;
• Kalma Resto.

Holidays

In Ushuaia, as one of the most popular tourist cities, it is actively celebrated Christmas and New Year. True, performances on the streets and free concerts should not be expected: as a rule, an individual program is thought up only in establishments, places in which are booked for several months. A tourist is quite capable of paying 300-500 USD here for the New Year's feast. And those who have not thought out their holiday night in advance are likely to drink champagne at the hotel or walk along the deserted streets of the southernmost city.

However, in Ushuaia there are also a few of its own holidays, such as music festivals or dog sled races. But there is one event that, no doubt, can be called the main thing in the life of the city.

The longest night in the world celebrated from June 20 to 22. Despite the harsh climatic conditions, thousands of tourists flock to Ushuaia at this time. All three days on the streets of the city festive processions and concerts do not subside, and the city practically does not sleep. An interesting tradition is the rite La Quema de los Obstáculos e Impedimentos, during which participants write down on paper difficulties that impede the realization of their goals, and on June 21, the day of the solstice, throw them into a bonfire.

Security. What to watch out for

On the one hand, in Ushuaia is quite safe. This is a developed tourist city, and the Argentine authorities are closely monitoring its reputation. Here you can safely walk at night without fear of being robbed. On the other hand, it is customary to commit robbery in other, almost legal ways.

Right before my eyes in the cafe there was one scene: an elderly, smartly dressed English-speaking couple brought the bill for dinner.

- 30% service charge ?! - the visitor was surprised.

“Yes,” the waiter answered calmly.

The man dutifully paid. I strained terribly, preparing phrases in my head like “Show me where it is written on the menu” and mentally attuning to the scandal. However, in my account there was no interest for the service.

Thinking over this case later, I came to the conclusion that 2 factors contributed to my “luck”:

1. Basic knowledge of spanish. Do not forget that the dislike of the inhabitants of Tierra del Fuego for the British goes beyond common sense and logic. Having learned at least a few general phrases, you will fundamentally change the attitude of local residents to yourself. This is a wonderful and simple rule. It is a pity that it does not always work in other regions of Argentina.
2. Appearance. Putting on expensive jewelry and hanging a huge camera around your neck, you provoke a special attitude towards you from ordinary Wushuites. Of course, I'm not talking about cases when you are going to visit an expensive restaurant. But most cafes in Ushuaia are rather flimsy wooden houses with simple signs swaying in the wind. Yes, there are high prices, but dressing to match the establishment, you kind of tacitly allow you to raise them a little more, "just for you."

Things to do

In Ushuaia, I was never bored. An amazing atmosphere has developed here, allowing you to fully feel what unusual place you are in. And the main advantage of the city, in my opinion, is its diversity: here you can walk along the secluded paths of the city outskirts and enjoy the uniqueness of nature, then go down to the center and plunge headlong into the bustling life of the main streets, marveling at the variety of restaurants and galleries.

Shopping and shops

Shopping in our understanding of the word in Ushuaia is not developed. Most of the shops in the city are souvenir galleries and grocery supermarkets. True, there are a couple of shopping centers with European and American-made goods. So for those who can not live without shopping, I still list the main outlets of Ushuaia.

• Paseo del Fuego located on the outskirts of the city. This is the largest mall in Ushuaia. There are clothing, accessories and cosmetics stores, as well as a food court, a playground for children and a small cinema. Due to the remoteness from the city center, this place is in demand among the Wushuans themselves. Shopping in Paseo del Fuego cannot be called economical, but it can be a real salvation when you decide to buy some warm clothes, and the cheapest penguin sweater in the center costs 50 USD. It is also a good place for a budget lunch and relaxation with children.
• Ushuaia shopping located in the center of the city. It is much smaller than the Paseo del Fuego, and the prices here will be higher, but this is a good opportunity to buy clothes or dine in a food court overlooking the Beagle Channel.

Bars Where to go

There are not so many bars in the traditional sense of the word in Ushuaia. Mostly people prefer to spend evenings in cafes and restaurants, where in addition to delicious food and live music, there is always a large selection of alcohol. Among hundreds of establishments, perhaps no more than 10 work in bar mode. I will list the most popular of them.

• Dublin Pub;
• Viagro bar;
• Ideal bar.

However, their only difference from the rest of the cafes will be only the presence of a bar and, possibly, a more secluded atmosphere. Bars, like cafes, begin to work during the day, and close closer to midnight. Here, as well as in restaurants, you can order a hearty dinner, and the drinks on the menu will be the same as everywhere else in the city: wine, beer, traditional cocktails (where without a fernet cola) and strong alcohol.

Clubs and nightlife

There are very few night clubs in Ushuaia, and tourists do not visit them so often, being tired after long walks. The main audience are the Argentines themselves and other Latin Americans. In high season, small stuffy rooms are packed to the limit. Latina and other popular music play here.

The situation in the institutions reigns in an Argentinean relaxed way. Do not be surprised at the warm champagne in a plastic cup for 8 USD. But the entrance to the clubs is often free.

Such places are open throughout the night, but most of the fun still falls on the weekend, from 11 pm to 2-3 nights. There is no face control at the entrance, so I advise you to dress as simply and conveniently as possible so as not to attract too much attention.

Below I will list an almost complete list of clubs in Ushuaia:

• Esperanto Fin del Mundo;
• Nautico Disco;
• La Diosa Disco;
• Club E Vip.

Extreme sports

Being a region with a harsh climate, Tierra del Fuego has all the conditions for extreme sports and is actively developing them. I’ve never seen so many variations of winter trekking shoes and snow and ice vehicles (snowshoes, snowmobiles, dog sledding and even a snow banana, where tourists ride in the snow like in the waves).

Most often, agencies offer mixed types of trekking: for example, climbing + trekking on a glacier or trekking + canoeing. Such full-day tours are available at agencies starting at $ 100, including lunch and equipment rental. There are nightly types of tours that will cost you more - from 150 and above.

Among hundreds of various offers, I could single out a few of the most exotic.

• Ushuaia flying club offers walks on private jet. You will have to pay 150 USD per person per hour of flight. During the tour you will see stunning snow peaks and the intricate geography of Tierra del Fuego from a bird's eye view.
• Heliushuaia, which offers flights to helicopters. Tourists can choose one of several routes, for example a sightseeing tour over the city, a flight over the picturesque Esmeralda Lagoon or Estancia Arberton. Prices for a half-hour flight start at 150 USD per passenger.
• It is hard to imagine, but in the harsh Tierra del Fuego, it is perfectly developed diving. Ushuaia Divers invites tourists to make an unforgettable journey to the depths of the sea. Exploring the Beagle Channel from the inside will really be an interesting adventure for experienced divers, because in addition to giant kelp and king crabs, you can see the wreckage of old ships. The cost varies from the number of dives and the program, but at the time of my trip, prices started from 100 USD per person.

As you understand from my story, extreme entertainment in Ushuaia is quite expensive. Therefore, it is important to choose the right company with which you will go on an adventure. Do not rush to book immediately, read reviews on the Internet, do not hesitate to ask if the company has TripAdvisor certificates or other quality marks. After all, it is the service (down to such trifles as punctuality, which is important in imposing Argentina), professionalism and dedication of your guide that will become the factors that will most affect your impressions of the trip.

Souvenirs. What to bring as a gift

Usually in tourist cities, I could quickly get bored with shopping with the same souvenirs on the shelves. But in Ushuaia, the choice of gifts opened up for me from a new perspective, turning into an exciting journey through the world of galleries. As I wrote above, shops here rarely represent a boring retail space: they are whole makeshift museums with statues, colorful signs and funny trinkets.

The prices there will be appropriate: the only thing you can buy in such stores for 1-2 USD is a postcard. Magnets will cost about 5, and for more serious gifts you will have to give at least 15. The choice of souvenirs is very large, so I will probably divide them into several groups.

Traditional souvenirs

For those who do not have time to visit other regions of the country, Ushuaia shops offer traditional Argentine souvenirs. Here you can find accessories for mate, Buenos Aires baubles with the image of tango dancers and colorful fabrics that are sold by Indians in the north. Needless to say, the prices for traditional gifts here will be 3-5 times higher than in other regions of the country. For example, back in Ushuaia, I looked at a beautiful Native American veil for 80 USD, but I reasonably decided that it would cost less in the north. And as a result, I bought it in Salta for 20 USD.

The most southern souvenirs

Judging by the souvenirs with which the counters of Ushuaia are replete, the main symbol of the city is the penguin.With the image of this bird, a wide range of products is produced here: clothes, jewelry, dishes and interior elements, penguins made of semiprecious stones and realistic toys. What is lacking is only markets with lively birds, which, given the excitement of tourists, would also quickly disperse into souvenirs.

No less popular topic is the sea: in each store you will find a wall dedicated to long-distance navigation. Luxurious natural wood decor items imitating a ship's interior will flaunt on it.

Food

Ushuaia, supporting the reputation of a tourist city, offers travelers food products of its own production: chocolate, jam and even several types of beer. On the one hand, this is a good gift option for those who do not know what to give. In addition, these are inexpensive souvenirs - when you buy each of them, you can easily meet 5 USD. However, of all the local products that I tried, not one attracted my attention. Basically, these are rather mediocre goods, so if you want to bring your friends a really tasty souvenir, and not just a beautiful package from the ends of the Earth, I advise you to at least arrange a small tasting before buying.

Exotic souvenirs

Walking along the paths of the Tierra del Fuego Park, I saw strange orange mushrooms on the trees. Their bizarre shape and bright color gave me the firm conviction that this is an infection that is better not to touch.

But a few days later I found these little monsters in the supermarket. Pickled "Patagonian mushrooms" were sold at 20 USD per jar, but even the fact of their presence in the grocery store did not convince me that they can be eaten. Such exotic gifts will often be found in Ushuaia, a tourist city where even air is sold.

How to get around the city

The funny paradox of Ushuaia is that, with a difficult relationship with the UK, London double-deckers are used here for sightseeing tours. True, in the southernmost city in the world they are presented not in red, but in blue.

A bus stop is located near the entrance to the port, and the schedule of tours is often tied to cruise ships so that tourists arriving in Ushuaia for just a few hours can afford to quickly get to know the city. The cost of an hour tour is about 15 USD per person, which is quite comparable with the prices of other excursions.

Otherwise, public transport in Ushuaia is practically undeveloped. Occasionally, city buses pass here and there, but in general, tourists prefer to rent a car or book a shuttle to drive around the area. And on Ushuaia itself it is pleasant to walk.

Taxi. What features exist

Taxis are a good option for traveling over short distances, for example, to the airport or to the Martial Glacier. A one-way city trip should not exceed 10 USD. Taxis can be ordered either at the hotel or simply caught on the street. Before boarding, I recommend checking the approximate cost of the trip or making sure that the driver turns on the meter. This will help you avoid unforeseen expenses.

Buses

Several public buses run around Ushuaia, but their routes practically do not affect tourist attractions. However, if you live far from the center, it is likely that there is a bus that follows in your direction. The schedule will be prompted at the reception desk of any hotel or in the tourist information center. A ticket at the time of my trip cost a little more than 2 USD, you can purchase it directly from the driver.

Tourist transfer

The most popular transportation for trips outside the city are transfers. You can book a ticket in the tourist information center, agencies or in most hotels. The frequency of departure depends on the season and, accordingly, the number of applicants. For a round trip (for example, to the Tierra del Fuego National Park) you will have to pay about 20 USD.

Vehicle rental

If you value personal comfort, then in Ushuaia you can easily rent a car. This can be done in advance on the Internet, upon arrival at the airport or at one of the many agencies. Cost starts from 75 USD per day. To conclude an agreement, you will need international rights and an identity document.

Tips for motorists

It is important to know that in Ushuaia all vehicles located on a hill, automatically get the right of way. In most places on the streets there are signs, but even if they are not there, the rule still applies. This aims to prevent accidents due to ice and snow on steep mountain roads.

Ushuaia - holidays with children

In Ushuaia, I rarely met travelers with children. There are 3 reasons for this:

1. The inevitability of long flights and connections;
2. Harsh climate;
3. Lack of infrastructure for children's entertainment.

Indeed, it will be difficult for very young children to overcome all obstacles, especially point 1. But traveling to the ends of the world will certainly be interesting for school-age children who can understand the events of such a distant trip and enjoy the opportunities of ecotourism in the southernmost city in the world.

Going to Ushuaia with children, you should first of all make sure that the child is not cold. However, most hotels in the city offer comfortable conditions for travelers of all ages, and it is difficult to surprise the inhabitants of our countries with temperatures from 0 degrees and above. So just take a standard stock of warm clothes and feel free to go explore the end of the world with the whole family.

Ski vacation

Even in the coldest time of the year, Ushuaia does not want to part with tourists. Therefore, from June to September, 25 km from the city on the mountain Cerro Castor working ski resort.

The territory is equipped with slopes of varying difficulty, comfortable lifts, equipment rental (including skiing and snowboarding), several shops, restaurants and even one hotel.

Ski passes

Prices for services in the resort vary greatly depending on the season. The high season is in July, and the cheapest way to ride is in late June and late September.

The entry price for one day starts from 50 USD per person. At least 30 more you will need to pay for the rental of a full set of equipment. You can buy a ticket and pay for the necessary services on the spot, but before the trip I would still advise you to study the tariffs on the resort’s official website, as discounts are often offered there: for example, for group tickets.

Trails

A choice of vacationers is offered about 20 tracks of varying difficulty - from simple to very difficult. They are located on several levels, between which various types of lifts ply: chairlifts, rope tows and a "magic carpet".

If you have never skied or snowboarded, you can sign up for private or group lessons for an extra fee, or hire an instructor who will teach your children basic skiing skills.

As I wrote above, right at the entrance is a hotel consisting of just a few comfortable bungalows. Only a few can settle here, and the rest of the visitors will have to get to the slopes from Ushuaia every day by transfer or taxi. But given that a week renting a bungalow within walking distance of the resort costs several thousand dollars, most prefer to settle in the city.

Watch the video: Ushuaia, Argentina , 4K (April 2024).