El Calafate

I traveled to El Calafate with only one purpose: to look at Perito Moreno, one of the largest glaciers in the world.

But as a result, I stayed in the city for a whole week. Despite the high prices, which sometimes shock tourists, here you can learn to save money and get a pleasure from your stay. And the amazing nature of the surroundings falls in love with this city for everyone who comes here.

How to get there

To get to El Calafate, you first need to fly from Russia to the capital of Argentina. Several European and Asian companies offer flights from Moscow and St. Petersburg with one change from 1000 USD per round trip ticket. Current ticket prices can be found here. Read more about how to get to Buenos Aires in the article on the country.

It is important to keep in mind that all international flights arrive at the airport named after Minister Pistarini (EZE).

From here, from the capital, to El Calafate can be reached in two ways:

• Fly in a few hours - a great and reliable choice for those who want to achieve their goal faster;
• For long days driving around on buses or a rental car, at the same time exploring this magical country - the only true option for hopeless romantics or Argentine fans like me.

I will describe in detail about each method below.

By plane

For those who have just arrived from Russia and do not want to spend a lot of time on the road, the easiest way is to go to El Calafate by air. A flight from Buenos Aires will take only 3 hours, and round-trip tickets will cost about 300 USD. The only thing that is required of you is to choose an airport from which it will be more convenient for you to fly. Now I will explain what the difference is.

• Inland Metropolitan Airport (AEP) offers 3-4 daily direct flights to El Calafate. Flights are carried out immediately by two local airlines: Latam and Aerolineas Argentinas. If you decide to stay with this option, remember that during a transfer in Buenos Aires you will need to change the airport. For this, I advise laying at least 4-5 hours. On the map, it seems that the two airports are not so far from each other, but crazy capital roads can hold you back for a long time. In addition, during my trip to Argentina, it was fashionable for local residents to organize strikes, so periodically the main roads of the city were simply blocked for several hours.
• Departures from the international airport are good because you do not have to leave your airport in Buenos Aires. However, such flights are negligible - only 1-2 per week. Therefore, if you want to use this particular option, I advise you to first familiarize yourself with the schedule of Argentinean airlines, and then take a ticket from Russia on the corresponding date.

How to get from El Calafete Airport to the center

El Calafate Airport is 20 km from the city center. Unfortunately, there is no public transport in this direction. The choice of tourists is offered 2 ways to get to the city.

• Transfer can be booked in advance at your hostel / hotel or on the websites of shipping companies, the most famous of which is Ves Patagonia. The cost of a transfer for 1 person is on average 10-12 USD.
• Taxi will cost you about 30 USD. Therefore, if you are traveling together three or four, it would be wiser to use this method.

What can not be brought to El Calafate

Patagonia has its own rules. First of all, the ban on the import of any living organisms, plants and seeds. Failure to comply with this simple and seemingly frivolous rule often gives tourists a headache. For example, when I returned to the airport, a girl was traveling with me in a transfer. She complained that she had not been able to get luggage for several days at El Calafate Airport because she had an apple in her bag. At first, the baggage was detained during the inspection, and now it was personally summoned to the airport for official fruit extraction.

By bus

A double decker bus ride to El Calafate is only a good option if you are already traveling in Argentina or Chile. The bus flight Buenos Aires - El Calafate also exists, but its duration is about 2 days, and for a one-way ticket you will give from 220 to 270 USD depending on the comfort of transport.

However, if you are in the middle of the vast Argentina, you will not have much choice. After all, direct flights to El Calafate fly only from Buenos Aires, Bariloche and Ushuaia.

During my trip, the bus crossing from the unremarkable city of Comodoro Rivadavia to El Calafate took me 21 hours. However, I can’t say that the road was tiring. As usual, I bought tickets for the front seat on the second floor in advance and enjoyed the vast expanses of Patagonia all the way. This is much more interesting than it seems at first glance. After all, wild guanacos and nandus run across the road to you every now and then.

Bus Station El Calafate

There are several bus stations in El Calafate, but the main one is Terminal de Bus, located 2 km from the city center. From here it is easy to get to the desired point by taxi or on foot.

By car

But traveling by car will give you the opportunity to drive along the legendary Ruta 40 road, which crosses all of Argentina.

As far as I know, arriving in El Calafate in a rented car from Chile will be a bit more difficult: special permission is required to cross the border. You can learn more about this rule (and at the same time request a document) at the Chilean rental offices.

hint: El Calafate - time now is 10: 0113 OctoberDifference in hours: Moscow & plus; 6 Kazan & plus; 6 Samara & plus; 7 Yekaterinburg & plus; 8 Novosibirsk & plus; 10 Vladivostok & plus; 13

When is the season. When is the best time to go?

El Calafate is located in a rather harsh part of Patagonia. The temperature during the year ranges from -3 to +17 degrees, but the winds are raging here such that even in the warmest months, tourists have to thoroughly wrap themselves up. The warmest season is the period from December to February, and the coldest - summer time.

El Calafate in the summer

Undoubtedly, summer is an unfavorable season for a trip to El Calafate. At this time, the temperature drops below zero, and the winds do not calm down. In addition, in summer the region is completely littered with snow, and many hiking trails will be closed.

El Calafate in the fall

Of course, the off-season is a good option to save on traveling to such an expensive region. Very few tourists come at this time, and prices are noticeably reduced. But it is important to remember that Patagonia is a harsh region, and clear days with good visibility are rare here even in high season. So first think, is it worth the cost of not seeing a good half of local wonders?

El Calafate in the spring

In the spring the situation is about the same as in the fall. In March, the temperature is still within +10 degrees. But already in April a large amount of snow falls, and the winds intensify, making the situation unfavorable for recreation and ecotourism.

El Calafate in winter

December, January and February are the warmest, clearest and most popular months in Calafate. The maximum influx of tourists falls on Christmas Eve and New Year's, and even I managed to arrive in El Calafate at the peak of tourist activity. However, these months provide undeniable advantages, which are worth it to tolerate numerous groups of tourists, now and then encountered on the way.

El Calafate - monthly weather

help: El Calafate - weather for the months of January January + 13.2 February ± 13.1 March ± 10.4 April ± 7.3 May ± 4.0 June June ± 1.3 July ± 0.6 August ± 2.3 September ± 5.2 October ± 8.3 November & plus; 10.6 December & plus; 12.4

Areas. Where is better to live

El Calafate is a small village. Its length is about 7 km. And yet I decided to conditionally divide it into several tourist areas.

Accommodation in Calafate in high season is best booked in advance. In place, of course, you will not be left without a roof over your head, but you can greatly overpay. And in which of the areas to settle is a matter of taste of every tourist. I will only briefly list the main qualities of each of them:

• City center Suitable for those who want to always stay in the thick of things. It has the most shops, restaurants and bars, as well as a wide variety of housing - from modest hostels with rooms for 30 USD to cozy hotels for 90 USD and above.
• Bus station area Suitable for tourists coming for one day. From here it is easiest to go to the Perito Moreno Glacier or El Chalten, without wasting time moving around the city. True, housing here can not be called budget - it is mainly family hotels with rooms from 40 USD.
• Along avenue martin stretched a quiet area offering a huge selection of tourist accommodation. Moreover, if on the first streets of the lake there are luxury hotels with rooms from 100 to 200 USD, then directly behind them modestly hosted by tourists are budget hostels with rooms for 20-30 USD.
• AT outskirts of the city, mainly on the shores of Lake Calafate, there are stylish secluded hotels with their own territory and beautiful panoramic views. Prices for accommodation in this area are quite earthly - from 50 to 150 USD per day.

It’s convenient to choose and book accommodation at Bucking. You can see the prices for apartments here, and compare the cost of hotel rooms at this link.

What are the prices for vacation

When I arrived in El Calafate, the local prices at first shocked me. True, the surprise disappeared as soon as I got acquainted with the prices in Ushuaia. In general, the farther south, the more expensive Argentina becomes. And yet, even in this city there are ways to save.

Housing

I wrote about housing prices above. Unfortunately, I could not find a room cheaper than 20 USD per day in the high season. But if you come in the cold season, I advise you not to book a room in advance and bargain on the spot - I am sure that many will be happy to offer you a good discount.

Food

Restaurants in El Calafate are very expensive, so I immediately booked a hostel with a kitchen. Self-cooking helped me to save very well, considering that products (including fresh meat and excellent wine) in supermarkets are quite inexpensive. I was also greatly helped by Chinese restaurants, working on the basis of the buffet. For 10 USD, you could eat Argentinian asado with Chinese salads for a whole day for a garnish.

Excursions

Tours from El Calafate are also quite expensive. For example, the cost of tracking on the Perito Moreno Glacier at the time of my trip ranged from 140 to 200 USD per person. Therefore, I tried to visit the main attractions of the region on my own, since the public transport here works with a bang.

If you want to make an unforgettable adventure in El Calafate, I advise you to study the list of possibilities on the Internet or the tour desk in advance, as well as read reviews about the tour and the organizing company. This will help to make the right choice, which you will not regret later.

The main attractions. What to watch

Of course, the main attraction that any tourist who has come to El Calafate has heard of is the Perito Moreno Glacier. But in fact, in the city and its environs there are several more amazing corners.

Top 5

Perito Moreno Glacier

Perito Moreno, the largest glacier on the mainland, produced a hypnotic effect on me. Before the trip, I saw hundreds of photographs of this glacier, but in reality it still fights on the spot. Perhaps this is one of the most beautiful places in the world that I have ever seen.

The glacier is located in Los Glaciares National Park, 75 km from El Calafate. You can get to it by regular bus, boat or as part of an excursion group. The cost of admission to the park at the time of my trip was about 30 USD.

Even if you haven’t signed up for glacier trekking or other active activities, I advise you to come here all day. After all, you can stand for hours on the observation deck, watching how blocks of the size of 4-storey houses break from the glacier.

The reserve "Laguna Nimes"

This amazing bird park has become my second favorite attraction in El Calafate. It is located right in the city, and I came upon him quite by accident. Perhaps that is why he made such a strong impression on me.

The small reserve is home to dozens of species of various birds, including birds of prey. They are practically not afraid of people, therefore, watching them here is easy and very interesting.

Valichu Caves

In these caves, located in the middle between El Calafate and the airport, you can see rock paintings of ancient people. Including famous images of hands that have become one of Argentina's business cards. Of course, most of the drawings are replicas, and the administration of the complex does not hide this. But here and there you can see the original, time-worn drawings.

La Leona Fossil Park

A very unusual place with straightforward prehistoric landscapes. I think that if it were not for Perito Moreno, this fossil park would be the main attraction of the region. It is recommended to come here as part of an excursion group, since the park is located in a private area.

Uppsala Glacier

Honestly, I do not really understand the popularity of the Uppsala glacier, which looks less impressive than the handsome Perito Moreno. But tourists love it for interesting trekking tours and catamaran rides.

Churches and temples. Which are worth a visit

In El Calafate, I saw only a few tiny churches, and not one of them seemed remarkable to me either for its architecture or its interior. These are simple chapels where locals and Catholic tourists come.

Museums Which are worth a visit

There are not so many museums in the city, but each of them offers its own unique exhibition. Below I will briefly talk about their features.

• Museum of Glaciers (Glaciarium) It is recommended to visit before going to one of the glaciers. The collection can give everyone a lot of useful knowledge, and a large number of inscriptions in English helps to absorb information. A ticket costs about 15 USD, but a free shuttle runs between the city and the museum. He collects visitors from the tourist office in the city center and leaves every hour. Museum opening hours: from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m., except for the low season (April-September). At this time, the museum opens at 11 a.m. and is open until 7 p.m.
• Historical and Educational Center (El centro de Interpretacion) - A small but fascinating museum that tells the history of Patagonia from the era of dinosaurs to the present day. Ticket price - 10 USD. The museum is open from 10 to 20 hours every day.
• Museum of Argentinean Toys and Eva Peron - a rather strange combination of two collections located in the neighborhood. Suitable for those who are tired of death from glaciers and fossils. However, the ticket price, in my opinion, is very high. At the time of my trip, it was 17 USD per person.

Parks

With the exception of the Nimes Lagoon, which I wrote about in the top 5, there are no city parks in Calafate. But are they needed when the wilderness of South Patagonia in all its splendor stretches in the vicinity?

Tourist streets

For souvenirs and other purchases, you should go to the city center. Here are the popular shopping arcades La aldea de gnomos and Paseo de artesanoswhere I managed to find really nice little things.

Otherwise, the tourist life in El Calafate is very quiet and calm. You rarely see street musicians or artists here, and travelers prefer to spend evenings in restaurants and hotels.

What to see in 1 day

For those who arrived in El Calafate for 1 day (as many tourists do), I made a small program that will not be very original, but will help to spend the day with benefit and get the best experience:

• 8-9 hours - Naturally, the first half of the day should be devoted to a trip to the Perito Moreno Glacier. You can get to it quickly in three ways:

1. By bus. It leaves from the bus terminal at 9 am, the cost of a one-way ticket is 13 USD. You can buy a ticket at the ticket office of the terminal immediately before departure. In addition, private buses run from the station, but they cost significantly more.
2. On the boat, which departs from the marina of El Calafate every hour. The ticket price is about 18 USD one way.
3. As part of an excursion groupwhere you can not only look at the glacier, but also walk along it. Signing up for such tours is better in advance, therefore, if you come to El Calafate for just one day, you should reserve a place in the group on one of the companies websites.

• 17-18 hours -If you returned to El Calafate before sunset, be sure to visit the Laguna Nimez Wildlife Refuge. Watching amazing Patagonian birds in a natural environment will complement your day with wonderful impressions.

• 19-20 hours - To make the day absolutely perfect, mark it with a chic Patagonian dinner. For example, in a restaurant Buenos cruces or Mi ranchoThey are famous for their cuisine and are located in the very center of the city. At the same time you will have time to buy a couple of souvenirs, because the tourist streets La aldea de gnomos and Paseo de artesanos are a stone's throw from these establishments.

What to see in the surroundings

Patagonia - one of the most sparsely populated regions in the world. The scale of its desert steppes and lifeless mountains is simply amazing. Therefore, the "vicinity" of El Calafate is usually called places 150-200 km from the city. However, this does not prevent tourists from visiting them even as part of a one-day excursion.

The most popular destination from Calafate is ElChalten (220 km). It is from this village that trails lead travelers to the famous Argentine rocks - Cerro Torre and Fitzroy.

Climbers come here who stay in Chalten for a month or more, as well as lovers of tracking - they usually give Chalten from 2 days to a week. Moreover, the time of stay of both those and others depends not only on the complexity of routes, but also on severe weather conditions.

When I arrived in Chalten, we were first invited for a short briefing. The first thing the employee told us: "Today you are incredibly lucky with the weather." At that moment, I did not attach any special meaning to it, taking a clear day for granted. But the next morning the sky was covered with thick fog, and the rocks completely disappeared from view. They later explained to me that it was this kind of weather that was typical of these places.

In addition to the breathtaking views from the trekking routes, it is interesting to watch wildlife here. For example, among other birds, I managed to see a condor in the sky.

You can get to Chalten by a rented car or one of the buses that depart several times a day from the El Calafate bus station. The cost of a one-way ticket is about 25 USD. Access to the routes is free, but if you want to stay on the trail or in the base climbing camps for a few days, you will be asked to register at the information center.

help: Routes to neighboring cities El Calafate - El Chalten 120 km El Calafate - Puerto Natales 155 km El Calafate - Punta Arenas 327 km El Calafate - Chile Chico 424 km El Calafate - Perito Moreno, Province of Santa Cruz 428 km

Food. What to try

El Calafate is famous for its good restaurants serving Patagonian cuisine. Basically, these are beef steaks, char-grilled lamb and fish, which are rich in local lakes.

The only authentic product is a berry called kalafate. You can try it only in these parts. It resembles sour blueberries to taste and, in my opinion, does not deserve much interest. However, calafate has already occupied its niche in the tourist infrastructure of the city, so you can buy jam or ice cream from this berry on almost every corner.

Recommended Places

Establishments in El Calafate can be divided into 3 groups:

• Cheap (fast food restaurants);
• Mid-level (cozy cafes with Argentinean paris);
• Expensive (gourmet restaurants).

Below I will give a list of establishments that enjoy a good reputation among tourists.

Budgetary

• Pluschow Resto;
• Maria - Brownies y algo mas;
• Dona Mecha;
• Green Market Patagonia;
• La fonda del parrillero;
• Eccomax 2000.

Mid level

• Kau Kaleshen;
• Buenos Cruces Restaurante;
• Mi Rancho;
• La Zaina Restaurant;
• Don Pichon.

Expensive

• MAKO fuegos y vinos;
• La Posta;
• Restaurant Mora;
• Barlovento.

Holidays

As I said, in Calafate I arrived on New Year's Eve. I imagined a noisy carnival that would go all the way to Perito Moreno, without subsiding until the morning. However, everything turned out to be completely different: with the exception of restaurants crowded with people, the city completely died out. To my question in several institutions about whether I can join the feast, I received 2 answers: "The restaurant is booked for a private event" or "Table reservation will cost 300 USD." Therefore, I hastened to return to my hostel, where the holiday was somehow celebrated.

However, there are several holidays in El Calafate, which, according to other travelers, are much more fun.

• Argentino Lake Day (Aniversario del Lago Argentino) - Perhaps one of the main events of the city. After all, it was Lake Argentino, or rather, the Perito Moreno Glacier located on it, that brought El Calafate such popularity. The peak of the celebration falls on February 14th - on this day the city administration organizes a big concert at which famous musicians of the country perform. But in fact, the fun begins here on January 20 - a whole month a variety of sports and cultural events are held in the city. And on February 26, the holiday ends with a bright carnival.
• Ice Festival (Fiesta del Hielo) held in June or July. Exact dates vary from year to year. This peculiar holiday of winter fun - for several days in the city there are competitions in winter sports and popular ice games.
• Traditions Day (Día de la Tradición en El Calafate) - A local holiday, appointed by the local municipality in honor of the birthday of the poet Jose Hernandez. Celebrated on November 10th. On this day, the city has a lot of music, dancing and mouth-watering food. A great opportunity to feel home comfort so far from a real home.
• City Day (Fiesta del Pueblo) falls on December 7th. A variety of sporting events and concerts by local musicians are held.

Security. What to watch out for

El Calafate is pretty safe. As in any tourist city, you should be afraid only of high prices and dishonest sellers who can raise the price even higher. Therefore, if you planned a purchase (especially expensive), first compare the prices in neighboring stores. This will allow you to avoid discomfort afterwards.

Things to do

In El Calafate, it is very interesting to watch wildlife. The demand for this type of holiday has led local enthusiasts to create a “Patagonian safari”. These are organized tours during which you come to a private farm (hacienda) and watch the life of wild animals (mainly guanaco and nanda), after which you have a hearty lunch with the hacienda owners. No less interesting analogs are jeep safaris and horseback riding through the wild territories of Patagonia, where you can also see the Patagonian puma at the same time.

And for those who have already enjoyed the wild world of Patagonia (for example, like me, having traveled by bus for 20 hours), I recommend paying attention to extreme sports that are developing well in the region.

Shopping and shops

The main list of goods in El Calafate stores is quite simple: these are souvenirs, clothes (mostly warm) and sports goods. However, I would not recommend going shopping without emergency, because the prices in El Calafate are inflated to heaven.

Bars Where to go

The bars in El Calafate are designed exclusively for tourists, so most of them open at lunchtime and open until 2–3 a.m. Prices in such establishments will be 2-3 times more expensive than in stores, although no entertainment program for guests has been planned.

The exception is ice bars - Yeti and Brancawhere visitors are invited to drink strong drinks in a chilling (literally) setting.

The following places are also popular with tourists:

• La Toldería;
• Elba'r;
• Borges y Álvarez.

Clubs and nightlife

There are few night clubs in El Calafate. More precisely, at the time of my stay he was only one- Boulebar social club. And even then he worked only on weekends, and the main entertainment here was not dancing, but concerts of local artists. It seems that discos in this city are not very popular.

Extreme sports

As I already wrote, El Calafate is a great platform for a variety of extreme entertainment. Experienced climbers and climbers come here from all over the world to conquer Cerro Torre and Fitzroy (few, however, manage to do this), and approximately every third tourist makes tracking on one of the glaciers.

In addition, local agencies can book tours such as zip lines, canoeing, jeep rides, mountain biking and horseback riding, as well as sport fishing.

Souvenirs. What to bring as a gift

Souvenirs in El Calafate can be described with a short phrase: "Anything in the form of penguins and ice." But in fact, on souvenir ruins in the city center, I managed to find interesting magnets for 3-5 USD and handmade jewelry made of glass for 10-15 USD (of course, in the form of ice).

Also, the city is full of standard Argentinean souvenirs, there are specialized wine and mate shops. However, I advise you to buy them wherever possible, but not in Patagonia. After El Calafate and Ushuaia, I went to the north of the country, to the hot and very cheap Indian regions. The difference in price for some goods here and there was 400-500%.

How to get around the city

El Calafate itself is convenient for walking. The city is quite compact, and the only form of public transport here is modern orange minibuses. Also, for those who do not like to walk a lot, there are rentals in the city where you can rent a bicycle, moped or car.

Intercity buses are great for exploring the area. Many travelers are advised to buy tickets for them in advance so as not to be left with anything. But I had no such problems even on New Year's Eve.

Taxi. What features exist

There are several taxi services in El Calafate, but I have not seen a fundamental difference between them. A trip around the city should not exceed 15 USD, the price should definitely be discussed with the driver before landing.

A local taxi has one nice bonus. As I wrote at the very beginning, a taxi from the airport to the city center costs about 30 USD. On the way from the airport, you can immediately agree with your driver about a trip in the opposite direction. In this case, the return trip (from El Calafate to the airport) will cost a little cheaper.

Travel transfers

Taxi rides in the surroundings are prohibitively expensive, so a well-coordinated transfer system comes to the aid of travelers who do not want to use public transport. You can find out prices and book your place at any hostel or hotel.

Buses

Several times, walking along San Martin Avenue, I saw orange minibuses passing back and forth. But I did not find any stops or a schedule. However, for those who live near the center, transport for trips around the city is not needed. And if you settled on the outskirts, the administration of your hotel will be happy to tell you how easy it is to get to the center.

Vehicle rental

You can rent a car both at Calafate Airport and at one of the city’s many agencies. In general, the rental rules do not differ from the general Argentine ones, only for the execution of documents here, for some reason, it takes more time. Prices for car rental in El Calafate start from 250 USD for 3 days - This is the minimum rental period in Argentina. Car options and prices can be compared here.

El Calafate - holidays with children

Perhaps the only obstacle I see when traveling with children in El Calafate is the lack of infrastructure for children's entertainment. In addition to modest playgrounds and games rooms in hotels, you will have nothing to entertain young children with. But for older children, a trip to this distant land, which Darwin and Jules Verne described with such enthusiasm, will be a truly exciting adventure.

Ski vacation

From June to September, during the coldest time of the year, the El Calafate Mountain theme park opens the small winter resort of Parque de Nieve. In addition to a variety of fun (from tubing to snowmobiles), it is equipped with several ski slopes of low and medium difficulty levels.

Ski passes

Many travel agencies, including the administration of El Calafate Mountain, offer tours to the Parque de Nieve. Prices start at 65 USD per half day and include transfers, lunch, a guide and access to all entertainment. This is a great opportunity for those who love all kinds of winter fun. But for ski fans, this is probably not the best solution. After all, usually the entrance to the ski resorts of Argentina, even the most popular and large-scale, costs 10-20% cheaper.

Trails

As I wrote above, Parque de Nieve is equipped with several tracks of low and medium difficulty levels. Therefore, most often here beginners and families with children try their hand.

Unfortunately, I could not find a track map in the public domain. I think that if necessary, detailed information can be requested on the park’s official website or received at the office upon arrival.

In addition to instruction for adults, the park administration offers group classes for children from 3 to 5 years.

But there is no tourist accommodation in the vicinity of the park. As a rule, guests from El Calafate come here as part of a one-day excursion. This is enough to get acquainted with a few tracks. And for intensive skiing, tourists prefer other, larger resorts, for example, Cerro Castor in Ushaouia and, of course, Cerro Catedral in Bariloche.

Watch the video: PATAGONIA III El Calafate to El Chalten (April 2024).